Driving in Tbilisi, Georgia, has been an unforgettable experience, filled with unexpected twists and turns, both literal and metaphorical. The first time I got behind the wheel in this vibrant city, I was a bundle of excitement and trepidation. Tbilisi, with its narrow streets, steep hills, and unique driving customs, is a far cry from the orderly roads of my hometown. Yet, it was precisely these challenges that drew me in, offering a taste of the city’s soul that public transport or walking could never provide.
My journey began in the early morning, with the sun barely peeking over the horizon and casting a golden hue over the ancient cityscape. The air was crisp and the streets were still waking up, providing a relatively calm introduction to the chaos that would soon unfold. I had rented a small, nondescript car for the day—something that wouldn’t draw too much attention in a city where even the smallest vehicles seemed to maneuver with a kind of swagger.
Navigating Tbilisi’s roads requires a blend of intuition and strategy. The city’s layout is a labyrinth of old and new, where cobblestone alleys meet modern boulevards, and the architecture tells stories of a long and complex history. As I ventured into the heart of Tbilisi, the terrain grew more challenging. The steep inclines and declines were both exhilarating and nerve-wracking. My small car struggled up some of the steeper hills, and on the way down, I had to keep a steady foot on the brake to avoid accelerating uncontrollably.
Traffic signals seemed to be more like gentle suggestions rather than strict commands. In Tbilisi, it feels like every intersection is a negotiation, with drivers inching forward, making eye contact, and often, breaking the rules just enough to maintain a flow. The art of driving here involves a kind of dance, where everyone moves together in an unspoken rhythm. The horns are more of a communicative tool than a sign of frustration, and I’ve quickly learned that patience is key.
One of the most fascinating aspects of driving in Tbilisi is how the city’s rich culture is embedded in its roads. As I made my way through the neighborhoods, I passed by traditional Georgian houses with ornate wooden balconies, which seemed to lean out towards the street as if to greet passersby. The juxtaposition of these old-world structures with the hustle of modern life created a dynamic backdrop for my journey.
Midday brought a different flavor to the driving experience. The streets filled with people, market stalls, and the occasional street performer adding a touch of color to the bustling environment. The local markets were a sensory overload of sights and sounds—vendors calling out their wares, the aroma of freshly baked bread and sizzling kebabs, and the vibrant display of fruits and vegetables. Driving through these areas required extra caution and a constant readiness to adjust my route on the fly.
One memorable encounter was with an elderly man selling flowers from a cart. As I slowed down to let pedestrians cross, he waved cheerfully, and I couldn’t help but smile back. In that moment, amidst the chaotic traffic and the frantic pace of the city, there was a pause—a simple, human connection that felt both grounding and heartwarming.
The winding roads leading up to the Narikala Fortress provided a new kind of challenge. The fortress, perched on a hill overlooking the city, was a destination I was eager to reach. The road to the top was narrow and steep, with sharp turns that required careful navigation. As I drove, I marveled at the panoramic views of Tbilisi unfolding before me. The city below was a patchwork of terracotta roofs and green hills, and the sight was worth every white-knuckled turn.
Reaching the summit was a victory in itself, but the real reward was the view from the fortress. From there, Tbilisi sprawled out like a living canvas, with its mix of old and new, its blend of cultures and histories. It was a reminder of why I had embarked on this driving adventure in the first place—to experience the city’s essence in a way that no guidebook or tour could fully capture.
As the sun began to set, the streets of Tbilisi transformed once again. The city’s nightlife emerged, with lights flickering on and the sounds of music and laughter filling the air. Driving at night offered a different perspective—one that was more serene, yet no less vibrant. The traffic was lighter, and the city’s landmarks were illuminated, casting long shadows and creating a magical atmosphere.
Returning the car at the end of the day, I felt a mix of relief and accomplishment. Driving in Tbilisi had tested my skills and patience, but it had also given me a deeper appreciation for the city’s character. The chaotic charm of the roads, the friendly interactions with locals, and the breathtaking views were all part of an unforgettable journey. Tbilisi had revealed itself to me not just through its landmarks but through the very act of driving—a true testament to the city’s ability to leave a lasting impression on anyone willing to embrace its rhythms.